I spent a while on here reading all about Hublot and now I have purchased one & worn it for a while I thought I would write a little review in case it helped others decide. I I wouldn’t normally bother writing a
review but I thought this watch was sufficiently different & impressive to merit
some words and pictures, so here goes…
This rather large (OK huge) 48mm King Power case dictates the agenda for
the whole watch and just putting it on is an occasion, the sheer
scale of it (even if it wasn’t made by Hublot) means the wach is certain to
polarise opinion. The 48 mm measurement does not include the crown so in
reality it is a fair bit larger, it is also 18mm thick, so I certainly
don’t feel is suitable as an only watch. After getting over the initial
shock of the size I was pleasantly surprised by its weight, 161 grams,
or about the same as a SS Rolex – demonstrating firstly just how much
metal is still in the watch (the strap is rubber after all) but also the
good job they have made of using lightweight materials where possible.
The strap & clasp work really well & the watch sits nicely on
the wrist & doesn’t actually feel top heavy or try to move about
when worn.
Fans of Douglas Adams may recall Hotblack Desiato’s all black space ship
“Every time you try to operate one of these weird black controls that
are labelled in black on a black background, a little black light lights
up black to let you know you've done it”. Well the makers (predecessors
?) of Hotblack’s ship are alive & well and working at Hublot. To me
this is the reason I bought the watch, the attention to detail, which
to some extent has forsaken function for form. Whilst many loathe Hublot
I have always liked them – perhaps because I don’t see them as being in
competition with other brands but as watches to complement a
collection.
Back to the watch – it certainly manages the Hublot “fusion” concept
well – the case is composed of black composite resin sandwiched between
black ceramic plates. The bezel is a thick black rubber ring with a
(black) titanium disc over the top of it. The crown & chrono pushers
are black titanium & rubber. The entire watch is held together by
black-PVD-coated titanium “H” screws. Curiously the randomness of the
orientation doesn’t bother me (or even notice) in real life. The folding
clasp is of course a black combination of titanium & ceramic – it
is easily adjusted, and feels very secure & clips open & closed
just as you would expect it to.
The real details start when you look at the dial more closely – it is
only upon close inspection you can realise just how difficult it must be
to make a watch like this with every piece just about being bespoke and
meticulously finished. The hands are the only element that aren’t
black, but a sort of shiny brown – they reflect the light wonderfully
well making the time very easy to see even in very low light.
However it is a crime to keep the watch in low light as it rewards a
close examination of the detailing that has gone into its dial. The dial
itself is actually a transparent form of carbon fibre with perfectly
applied print markings that allows you to see much of the movement
underneath. The dial is surrounded by a rehaut engraved with minutes,
the hours markers are stuck onto the glass individually and again are
black. The hands and hours are filled with (black) super luminova which
barely glows at all – pointless but to my mind a great detail where the
designer has refused to compromise unnecessarily. The highlight of the
dial for me is the date ring, which again must have been very difficult
to make. It snaps round at midnight with the current day being indicated
by a white disc – I guess a black disc was just too much even for
Hublot !
The chrono pushers work very smoothly – far better than the Hublot Big
Bangs or also my El Primero – you can see the gears that drive the
running seconds & also the chrono reset through the dial. The
Flyback chrono only measures an hour and curiously the elapsed minutes
are driven like a regular minute hand so doesn’t snap each minute like
an El Primero – coupled with the black markings it makes reading the
elapsed time fairly tricky despite the actual use being a pleasure.
The display back allows you to admire the mostly black movement – which
is very industrial looking. The “decoration” suits the overall style of
the watch perfectly and it is a very unique looking movement and clearly
something a bit special. Much of it is ceramic so hopefully won’t need
as much servicing as older movements as clearly this will be a return to
Hublot event.
I am delighted with the watch and the movement – I know it certainly
isn’t for everyone but critics should look at the detailing &
craftsmanship and not consider why they prefer a Rolex or JLC but how it
would add to their collection & enjoyment. I know many disliked
Hublot for the Big Bang’s movement being based on a 7750, this Unico
definitely addresses this concern, and looking at the new range of 45mm
Big Bangs that will contain Unico movements I would say Hublot’s future
is certainly very dark !
This message has been edited by KIH on 2013-07-25 17:22:35