Baselworld/SIHH

Baselworld 2013: Harry Winston Report

 

2013 is a pivotal year for Harry Winston: new owner, new booth... Harry Winston was one of the main points of interest during the Basel Fair. A lot of people wished to observe that would be the attitude of the Hayek family, to know if the Swatch Group influence would have started to be felt etc...

But this business context doesn't have to hide the 2013 collection. It would have been a pity because I found it balanced with a good mix of daring and superlative watches from one side and of more classic and simple ones from the other. And in each and every case, I was seduced by their refined style.

"Monochrome" was the main trend this year. It doesn't mean that the watches were dull and it was strictly the opposite at the end. Harry Winston used the potential of this monochrome approach to play with the finishing techniques and to create contrasts between some parts of the dials.

Other trend is the continuity.

Last year, we discovered the new Premier case and, several months before, a new collection with the Ocean Sport line.

In 2013, you will not see any new case nor a new collection. The watches are an evolution of pre-existing models or fit into the same path drawn in 2012 like the new Premier Feathers watches.

Before browsing the watches, I propose you to discover the impressive new booth located at the first floor of the Baselworld main Hall.

Actually, this booth is a kind of replica of the Shanghai salon which opened during the first half of 2012.

A very imposing booth:

To be honest with you, I felt more the impact of the Baselworld extension works on the first floor than on the ground floor.


The typical Harry Winston atmosphere, exclusive and elegant at the same time:

The entrance:

The ground floor was dedicated to the presentations to the journalists while the salerooms were located on the first floor of the booth:

The bar was more than welcome!

I shot the watches in a similar place. The light conditions were perfect.

Let's discover the novelties now!

I would like to start with the Midnight Monochrome.

The Midnight collection was introduced 2 years ago and very quickly, the customers appreciated its thin and slender cases. I remember very well the discussions we had during Baselworld 2011. At that time, I explained that my fav version was the big date because the automatic was a bit... boring due to its almost empty dial.

It is the reason why I was happy to discover these two Midnight Monochrome watches. The basic watches are the 42mm automatic for men and the 39mm quartz for women but this time, they feature a slate-like effect on the dial.

The Men's watch gets a grey dial while the women's watch proposes a different colour with a silver white shade.

The slate structure which was created thanks to a new technique animates a lot the dials of both watches which is a very positive point. Don't forget that they don't have any second hand.

I wonder if in the context of this slate-like effect, the date window should have been removed:

Anyway, the dials of both watches are gorgeous!

Men's watch is still powered by the GP3300 caliber:

The 42mm are a bit too big for this slender and elegant watch but it is fine for me thanks to the curved lugs:

The dial combines perfectly with the rose gold case and the diamonds-set bezel:

The dial looks like almost silver foil on this picture. It is bright and luminous.

On a lady's wrist:

Conclusion:

A nice evolution of two Midnight models thanks to a very convincing decoration style of the dials. But careful: it will not appeal to everybody.

The Ocean Dual Time (aka the Z4 when it comes with a Zalium case) is with the Z6 (the alarm watch) my fav Ocean watch. I like its complication and the multi-layered dial.

The Ocean Dual Time Monochrome has a Zalium case and a "pre-aged" frame for the dual time and date indications. Actually, this layer is made of oxidized platinum which is hand-brushed to create this kind of patina. The message behind is to show the effect of time.

The positive point is that the subdials seem to pop-up: the contrast between them and the oxidized platinum layer is high without being aggressive. Again, we are in the "monochrome context" here and everything stays within very refined limits.

My only concern is the lack of contrast between the main and the second timezone subdials. I would have preferred something which differentiates them. But, despite this remark, the Ocean Dual time Monochrome remains a superb watch.

The shuriken plays the same role than a second hand: it is a "working" indicator.

Of course, the movement remains the same: a GP3300 base (like the Midnight Automatic) + a module coming from Agenhor. Due to the size of the base caliber and its location, I would have preferred a solid caseback.

On the other hand, we can take advantage of a new decoration of the winding rotor (black DLC treatment):

The case diameter is 44mm. Hopefully, the moving lugs improve the comfort on the wrist:

I love this dial and its feeling of depth:

This watch is a LE of 250 pieces.

Conclusion:

A new style for the Ocean Dual Time which works perfectly with the multi-layered dial.

The Premier Feathers collection was launched last year with 4 pieces. This year, 3 new watches join the collection with 3 new Marqueteries, still housed in a 36mm Premier case and powered by a quartz movement:


- Marquetry of guinea fowl feathers tinted blue:

- Marquetry of guinea fowl feathers and silvered pheasant feathers tinted blue:

- Marquetry of purple and turquoise pheasant and peacock feathers:

Without glamour, Harry Winston wouldn't be Harry Winston anymore. So I asked to this lovely model assistance for the wristshots. The Premier Feathers are perfect on her wrist!

 

Conclusion:

Nothing really new compared to last year but these 3 new models complete nicely  the collection.

We stay with the same 36mm case with the Premier Glacier.

At first glance, the 108 baguette-cut diamonds seem to be set randomly on the dial. But actually, they draw a complex setting which creates beautiful shades of light. A special dial plate was developed to be able to house these diamonds. This plate draws a sort of labyrinth which obliges the master gem setter to set only between 5 and 7 diamonds per day. So you can imagine how long it takes to fully set the dial.

I don't forget the case and the bracelet which are set too. As a whole, the watch is set with 497 diamonds.

The Premier Glacier is a LE of 5 pieces.

Glacier is a diamond watches which uses only baguette-cut diamonds. A total of 422 diamonds were used to set this unique piece.

I appreciated the flexibility of the bracelet:

Sadly, the watch was too big for her wrist:

Last year, Harry Winston presented the Ocean Big Date Tourbillon. With the Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour, Harry Winston proposes a watch with a similar atmosphere. The idea behind is to be focused on the Tourbillon, to make it very visible, to make it float in the air... in order to define a magic visual effect.

This Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour is obvuiously a big watch with a 45,6mm case. Good news are that the thickness is rather controlled (13,2mm).

Actually, a structure was built to hold the Tourbillon and the upper dial which tells the time. Several blue details sprinkle the watch (screws, indexes): we may think that it is "too much" but I was not shocked by them and at least, blue is the Harry Winston colour.

There is a true feeling of depth which enhances the beauty and the floating feeling of the Tourbillon:

Thanks to the inner minute hand, there is no risk to overlap the hour window:

The finishings are flawless. The little shuriken, used as a second indicator, is on top of the Tourbillon.

The movement is based on a Dimier caliber. It has a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of 110 hours. You will notice the power reserve indicator on the back and the shape of the Tourbillon bridge:

Like with the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date, I like the contrast between the bulky case and the fragile behaviour of the Tourbillon.

The Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour will be released in a LE of 320 pieces:

100 in WG
200 in PG
10 in WG with the case set with 58 baguette-cut diamonds
10 in PG with the case set with 58 baguette-cut diamonds

The PG version:

I prefer the WG version because the big case requires in my point view a neutral material.

I like this picture, the Tourbillon seems to be be held by small wires:

Conclusion:

An impressive watch which seduced me more than the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date due to its time display. It combines classicism and modernity. We have the feeling that the upper dial will spring out of the watch. Maybe my fav Harry Winston this year.

During the SIHH week, I could see the Histoire de Tourbillon 4 I presented you in details here:
harrywinston.watchprosite.com

Hopefully, I could take much better pictures of the watch at the Harry Winston booth.

My feelings about the watch didn't change.

I love the high speed Tourbillon and the shape of the case. The idea to use a bubble to highlight the Tourbillon moves is excellent even if I would have preferred a less high bubble. On the negative side, I found the time legibility a bit too difficult because the hours scale is cut. Moreover, the minutes display needs to be used with it.

Actually, the whole watch is dedicated to the Tourbillon. Time display is almost optional here!

Just have a close look on the bubble and the magic begins!

As usual with any Histoire de Tourbillon, the movement comes from CompliTime.

The good surprise is the comfort on the wrist thanks to the efficient strap and buckle. The watch is heavy (the case is made of WG) but is well positioned on the wrist.

Very quickly, we spend the whole time watching what occurs inside the bubble and we totally forget the displays around...

Histoire de Tourbillon 4 is sold in a LE of 20 watches.

Conclusion:

A superb high-speed Tourbillon becomes the main point of interest and offsets the rather poor legibility of the watch.

And now...

drum roll...

Let's have a closer look on Opus XII!

I will of course come back with a more detailed post on this watch.

First of all, I'm very happy to see Ludovic Ballouard involved in an Opus watch. It is a well deserved recognition for him. After all, Ludovic is a specialist of alternative time displays so it is a bit logical to see him involved in such project.

I like Opus XIII because it is at the same time very Ludovic and very Harry Winston.

Ludovic style can be felt in the time display, the way each minute jumps. A very quick look on the movement, its colours, its finishings doesn't leave any doubt: Ludovic's signature is here.

But it is also very Harry Winston. Look at the case shape, the usual elements inspired by the entrance of the NY boutique and... the facet dome on the center of the watch. This dome makes me think about a diamond. So when noon or midnight arrives, the Harry Winston logo appears in the middle. A true symbol of what is Harry Winston, the king of diamonds!

I will be frank with you: despite its tricks, its impressive movement, its rather slender case (yes, it is  a very wearable watch), its legibility is not its strongest asset. It depends on the light conditions. Sometimes, in the booth, it was quite difficult to see the hours hand and the differences between the elapsed minutes and the others may appear to be subtle.

Anyway, I like this watch because it makes me think about a mechanical version of some clocks we may see in trendy shops, you know, these clocks which display the minutes with luminous dots. We have a mechanical and clever alternative here!

Can you imagine that the watch contains 242 jewels! I've never seen a wristwatch with 3 figures number of jewels before... it is obviously due to the time display and the 59 minutes hands.

The frequency of the movement is 3hz and its power reserve is 35 hours. Don't forget to wind the watch every day!

The lay-out of the movement is beautiful but maybe I would have been happy to see it with an other decoration style to be more in line with the Opus line and the front side. Don't get me wrong: Opus XIII is maybe the Opus with visually the most impressive movement. But I think I would have preferred colours closer to grey.

Last comment I have is the font used to engrave Opus XIII on the bezel: this font seems to be out of context. A strange choice, I hope that this font will be changed.

Opus XIII is a difficult watch to shoot:

What time is it? Easy! It is 10:11

A few minutes later...

The stunning movement, very Ballouard...

We are at the first hour (midnight or noon). The Harry Winston logo appeared in the middle of the dome. It is 12:17.

On the wrist:

I could appreciated the case proportion (diameter of 44,25mm and thickness of 13,6mm).

The font on the bezel is not as seducing:

A big facet diamond on the wrist! The dome explains a part of the charm of this intriguing and fascinating watch.

And of course, I was happy to wear it!

Conclusion:

Opus XIII is a fascinating watch. it is not perfect as you read it before.  But it creates a lot of emotions which is the most important in my point of view when we are talking about superlative watches.

With the Opus of the year, I finish this report. As you can see, despite the absence of a new line, the 2013 collection is quite comprehensive and more important, convincing at least for me. I was seduced by the Monochrome style, the Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour and Opus XIII manages to keep the magic of its predecessors.

After Basel, I believe that the Swatch Group influence will become bigger so we will see that will be the future trends. But it is an other story. For the time being, I just wish to enjoy this new collection.

I would like to thank a lot the full Harry Winston staff for the warm welcome, the availability, the time spent with me. They did their best to show me everything and in a very busy Basel fair, it is not easy to see everything. Thanks a lot for this, I highly appreciated the time I spent at the Harry Winston booth.

Fr.Xavier

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