foversta[PuristSPro Moderator]
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Baselworld 2013: Harry Winston Report
May 01, 2013,13:19 PM
2013 is a pivotal year for Harry Winston: new owner, new booth... Harry
Winston was one of the main points of interest during the Basel Fair. A
lot of people wished to observe that would be the attitude of the Hayek
family, to know if the Swatch Group influence would have started to be
felt etc...
But this business context doesn't have to
hide the 2013 collection. It would have been a pity because I found it
balanced with a good mix of daring and superlative watches from one side
and of more classic and simple ones from the other. And in each and
every case, I was seduced by their refined
style.
"Monochrome" was the main trend this year. It
doesn't mean that the watches were dull and it was strictly the opposite
at the end. Harry Winston used the potential of this monochrome
approach to play with the finishing techniques and to create contrasts
between some parts of the dials.
Other trend is the
continuity.
Last year, we discovered the new Premier
case and, several months before, a new collection with the Ocean Sport
line.
In 2013, you will not see any new case nor a
new collection. The watches are an evolution of pre-existing models or
fit into the same path drawn in 2012 like the new Premier Feathers
watches.
Before browsing the watches, I propose you
to discover the impressive new booth located at the first floor of the
Baselworld main Hall.
Actually, this booth is a kind
of replica of the Shanghai salon which opened during the first half of
2012.
A very imposing
booth:
To be honest with you, I felt more the impact of
the Baselworld extension works on the first floor than on the ground
floor.
The typical Harry Winston atmosphere, exclusive
and elegant at the same time:
The
entrance:
The
ground floor was dedicated to the presentations to the journalists while
the salerooms were located on the first floor of the booth:
The
bar was more than welcome!
I
shot the watches in a similar place. The light conditions were
perfect.
Let's discover
the novelties now!
I would like to start with the
Midnight Monochrome.
The Midnight
collection was introduced 2 years ago and very quickly, the customers
appreciated its thin and slender cases. I remember very well the
discussions we had during Baselworld 2011. At that time, I explained
that my fav version was the big date because the automatic was a bit...
boring due to its almost empty dial.
It is the reason
why I was happy to discover these two Midnight Monochrome watches. The
basic watches are the 42mm automatic for men and the 39mm quartz for
women but this time, they feature a slate-like effect on the dial.
The Men's watch gets a grey dial while the women's
watch proposes a different colour with a silver white
shade.
The slate structure which was created thanks
to a new technique animates a lot the dials of both watches which is a
very positive point. Don't forget that they don't have any second
hand.
I wonder if in the context of this slate-like
effect, the date window should have been removed:
Anyway, the dials of both
watches are gorgeous!
Men's watch is still
powered by the GP3300 caliber:
The
42mm are a bit too big for this slender and elegant watch but it is fine
for me thanks to the curved lugs:
The
dial combines perfectly with the rose gold case and the diamonds-set
bezel:
The
dial looks like almost silver foil on this picture. It is bright and
luminous.
On a
lady's wrist:
Conclusion:
A
nice evolution of two Midnight models thanks to a very convincing
decoration style of the dials. But careful: it will not appeal to
everybody. The Ocean Dual Time (aka the Z4
when it comes with a Zalium case) is with the Z6 (the alarm watch) my
fav Ocean watch. I like its complication and the multi-layered
dial.
The
Ocean Dual Time
Monochrome has a Zalium case and a "pre-aged" frame for the
dual time and date indications. Actually, this layer is made of oxidized
platinum which is hand-brushed to create this kind of patina. The
message behind is to show the effect of time.
The
positive point is that the subdials seem to pop-up: the contrast between
them and the oxidized platinum layer is high without being aggressive.
Again, we are in the "monochrome context" here and everything stays
within very refined limits.
My only concern is the
lack of contrast between the main and the second timezone subdials. I
would have preferred something which differentiates them. But, despite
this remark, the Ocean Dual time Monochrome remains a superb
watch.
The
shuriken plays the same role than a second hand: it is a "working"
indicator.
Of
course, the movement remains the same: a GP3300 base (like the Midnight
Automatic) + a module coming from Agenhor. Due to the size of the base
caliber and its location, I would have preferred a solid
caseback.
On the other hand, we can take advantage of
a new decoration of the winding rotor (black DLC treatment):
The
case diameter is 44mm. Hopefully, the moving lugs improve the comfort on
the wrist:
I
love this dial and its feeling of depth:
This
watch is a LE of 250
pieces.
Conclusion:
A new
style for the Ocean Dual Time which works perfectly with the
multi-layered dial. The
Premier
Feathers collection was launched last year with 4 pieces. This
year, 3 new watches join the collection with 3 new Marqueteries, still
housed in a 36mm Premier case and powered by a quartz
movement:
- Marquetry of guinea fowl
feathers tinted blue:
- Marquetry of guinea fowl
feathers and silvered pheasant feathers tinted blue:
- Marquetry of purple and
turquoise pheasant and peacock feathers:
Without
glamour, Harry Winston wouldn't be Harry Winston anymore. So I asked to
this lovely model assistance for the wristshots. The Premier Feathers
are perfect on her wrist!
Conclusion:
Nothing
really new compared to last year but these 3 new models complete
nicely the collection. We stay
with the same 36mm case with the
Premier
Glacier.
At first glance, the 108
baguette-cut diamonds seem to be set randomly on the dial. But actually,
they draw a complex setting which creates beautiful shades of light. A
special dial plate was developed to be able to house these diamonds.
This plate draws a sort of labyrinth which obliges the master gem setter
to set only between 5 and 7 diamonds per day. So you can imagine how
long it takes to fully set the dial.
I don't forget
the case and the bracelet which are set too. As a whole, the watch is
set with 497 diamonds.
The Premier Glacier is a LE of
5 pieces.
Glacier
is a diamond watches which uses only baguette-cut diamonds. A total of
422 diamonds were used to set this unique piece.
I
appreciated the flexibility of the bracelet:
Sadly, the watch was too
big for her wrist:
Last
year, Harry Winston presented the Ocean Big Date Tourbillon. With the
Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour, Harry Winston proposes
a watch with a similar atmosphere. The idea behind is to be focused on
the Tourbillon, to make it very visible, to make it float in the air...
in order to define a magic visual effect.
This Ocean
Tourbillon Jumping Hour is obvuiously a big watch with a 45,6mm case.
Good news are that the thickness is rather controlled (13,2mm).
Actually, a structure was built to hold the
Tourbillon and the upper dial which tells the time. Several blue details
sprinkle the watch (screws, indexes): we may think that it is "too
much" but I was not shocked by them and at least, blue is the Harry
Winston colour.
There is a true feeling of depth
which enhances the beauty and the floating feeling of the
Tourbillon:
Thanks to the inner
minute hand, there is no risk to overlap the hour window:
The
finishings are flawless. The little shuriken, used as a second
indicator, is on top of the Tourbillon.
The
movement is based on a Dimier caliber. It has a 4hz frequency and a
power reserve of 110 hours. You will notice the power reserve indicator
on the back and the shape of the Tourbillon bridge:
Like
with the Ocean Tourbillon Big Date, I like the contrast between the
bulky case and the fragile behaviour of the Tourbillon.
The
Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour will be released in a LE of 320
pieces:
100 in WG
200 in PG
10 in
WG with the case set with 58 baguette-cut diamonds
10 in PG
with the case set with 58 baguette-cut diamonds
The
PG version:
I
prefer the WG version because the big case requires in my point view a
neutral material.
I like this picture, the Tourbillon
seems to be be held by small wires:
Conclusion:
An
impressive watch which seduced me more than the Ocean Tourbillon Big
Date due to its time display. It combines classicism and modernity. We
have the feeling that the upper dial will spring out of the watch. Maybe
my fav Harry Winston this year.During the
SIHH week, I could see the Histoire de Tourbillon 4 I presented you in
details here:
harrywinston.watchprosite.com
Hopefully, I could take much better pictures of the
watch at the Harry Winston booth.
My feelings about
the watch didn't change.
I love the high speed
Tourbillon and the shape of the case. The idea to use a bubble to
highlight the Tourbillon moves is excellent even if I would have
preferred a less high bubble. On the negative side, I found the time
legibility a bit too difficult because the hours scale is cut. Moreover,
the minutes display needs to be used with
it.
Actually, the whole watch
is dedicated to the Tourbillon. Time display is almost optional
here!
Just
have a close look on the bubble and the magic begins!
As
usual with any Histoire de Tourbillon, the movement comes from
CompliTime.
The
good surprise is the comfort on the wrist thanks to the efficient strap
and buckle. The watch is heavy (the case is made of WG) but is well
positioned on the wrist.
Very
quickly, we spend the whole time watching what occurs inside the bubble
and we totally forget the displays around...
Histoire de Tourbillon 4
is sold in a LE of 20
watches.
Conclusion:
A
superb high-speed Tourbillon becomes the main point of interest and
offsets the rather poor legibility of the watch.
And now...
drum
roll...
Let's have a closer look on
Opus
XII!
I will of course come back with a more
detailed post on this watch.
First of all, I'm very
happy to see Ludovic Ballouard involved in an Opus watch. It is a well
deserved recognition for him. After all, Ludovic is a specialist of
alternative time displays so it is a bit logical to see him involved in
such project.
I like Opus XIII because it is at the
same time very Ludovic and very Harry
Winston.
Ludovic style can be felt in the time
display, the way each minute jumps. A very quick look on the movement,
its colours, its finishings doesn't leave any doubt: Ludovic's signature
is here.
But it is also very Harry Winston. Look at
the case shape, the usual elements inspired by the entrance of the NY
boutique and... the facet dome on the center of the watch. This dome
makes me think about a diamond. So when noon or midnight arrives, the
Harry Winston logo appears in the middle. A true symbol of what is Harry
Winston, the king of diamonds!
I will be frank with
you: despite its tricks, its impressive movement, its rather slender
case (yes, it is a very wearable watch), its legibility is not
its strongest asset. It depends on the light conditions. Sometimes, in
the booth, it was quite difficult to see the hours hand and the
differences between the elapsed minutes and the others may appear to be
subtle.
Anyway, I like this watch because it makes me
think about a mechanical version of some clocks we may see in trendy
shops, you know, these clocks which display the minutes with luminous
dots. We have a mechanical and clever alternative
here!
Can you imagine that the watch contains 242
jewels! I've never seen a wristwatch with 3 figures number of jewels
before... it is obviously due to the time display and the 59 minutes
hands.
The frequency of the movement is 3hz and its
power reserve is 35 hours. Don't forget to wind the watch every
day!
The lay-out of the movement is beautiful but
maybe I would have been happy to see it with an other decoration style
to be more in line with the Opus line and the front side. Don't get me
wrong: Opus XIII is maybe the Opus with visually the most impressive
movement. But I think I would have preferred colours closer to
grey.
Last comment I have is the font used to engrave
Opus XIII on the bezel: this font seems to be out of context. A strange
choice, I hope that this font will be changed.
Opus
XIII is a difficult watch to shoot:
What
time is it? Easy! It is 10:11
A
few minutes later...
The
stunning movement, very Ballouard...
We
are at the first hour (midnight or noon). The Harry Winston logo
appeared in the middle of the dome. It is 12:17.
On
the wrist:
I
could appreciated the case proportion (diameter of 44,25mm and thickness
of 13,6mm).
The font on the bezel is not as
seducing:
A
big facet diamond on the wrist! The dome explains a part of the charm of
this intriguing and fascinating watch.
And
of course, I was happy to wear it!
Conclusion:
Opus
XIII is a fascinating watch. it is not perfect as you read it
before. But it creates a lot of emotions which is the most
important in
my point of view when we are talking about superlative watches.
With the Opus of the year, I finish this
report. As you can see, despite the absence of a new line, the 2013
collection is quite comprehensive and more important, convincing at
least for me. I was seduced by the Monochrome style, the Ocean
Tourbillon Jumping Hour and Opus XIII manages to keep the magic of its
predecessors.
After Basel, I believe that the Swatch
Group influence will become bigger so we will see that will be the
future trends. But it is an other story. For the time being, I just wish
to enjoy this new collection.
I would like to thank a
lot the full Harry Winston staff for the warm welcome, the
availability, the time spent with me. They did their best to show me
everything and in a very busy Basel fair, it is not easy to see
everything. Thanks a lot for this, I highly appreciated the time I spent
at the Harry Winston
booth.
Fr.Xavier